This is the Sognefjord of Norway

One of the longest and deepest fjords on Earth, this vast waterway is not just a geographical feature but a defining force of nature. From glacier-fed valleys to historic villages and mountain roads, here’s how to plan a memorable visit.

Impossible to miss on a map, the Sognefjord cuts dramatically across western Norway.

Balestrand harbour scene. Photo: David Nikel.

Stretching more than 200 kilometres inland from the North Sea, it effectively separates the northwest and southwest fjord regions with a single, imposing sweep of dark blue water.

At its deepest point, the fjord plunges more than 1,300 metres below the surface, making it one of the deepest fjords anywhere in the world.

Yet statistics alone do not explain the Sognefjord’s status as one of Norway's most famous fjords. This is a living landscape, shaped by ice, water and time, where nature and culture exist side by side.

Centuries-old farms cling to impossibly steep hillsides. Tiny villages sit at the water’s edge, dwarfed by mountains that rise almost vertically from the fjord.

Every bend seems to reveal a new scene, whether it is a cascading waterfall, a patchwork of fruit orchards, or a quiet jetty waiting for the next ferry.

The main fjord branches repeatedly as it reaches inland, splitting into narrower arms such as the Nærøyfjord, Aurlandsfjord and Lustrafjord. Each has its own character, scenery and pace of life.

In this guide, I take a broad look at the Sognefjord region to help you plan a trip that suits your interests, whether that means gentle exploration, outdoor adventure or simply slowing down and soaking it all in.

How To Visit The Sognefjord

You could easily spend weeks travelling around the Sognefjord and still feel you have only scratched the surface.

Balestrand on the shore of the Sognefjord. Photo: David Nikel.

That is precisely why this is not a place to rush. If ever a region demanded a slow travel approach, this is it.

Rather than racing from viewpoint to viewpoint, you will gain far more from choosing one or two bases and exploring them properly. Spend time in a single village. Walk the same trail at different times of day. Sit by the water and watch the light shift across the mountains. The Sognefjord rewards patience.

My own recommendation is to focus on the inner section of the fjord, east of Balestrand, roughly two-thirds of the way along its length.

It is here that the scenery becomes especially dramatic. The fjord narrows, its arms reaching deep into the mountains, often ending abruptly at the foot of glaciers or beneath some of Norway’s highest peaks.

Balestrand: Art, History and Gentle Fjord Life

Often described as one of the prettiest villages on the inner Sognefjord, Balestrand makes an excellent base for exploring the wider region.

The setting is lush and almost Mediterranean in summer, with palm-like plants, colourful timber houses and a calm waterfront that invites unhurried strolls.

Balestrand has long attracted artists, writers and travellers, and that legacy is still visible today. Pick up a free map from the local tourist office and follow the Culture Trail, a self-guided walk of around two miles that winds through the village and introduces its architectural and artistic heritage.

Accommodation here is dominated by the historic Kviknes Hotel, run by the same family since 1877.

Balestrand's ‘English Church' has a fascinating story.

Built in a Swiss chalet style, the hotel has grown over the decades but retains a strong sense of character, complete with period interiors and fjord-facing lounges.

Do not miss the village church either. Known locally as the English Church, St Olaf’s Church is one of the most distinctive churches in the region, built in the 1890s for visiting English tourists and inspired by Norwegian stave church design.

Fjærland: Glaciers And Books By The Fjord

An alternative base, or a rewarding stop on a fjord journey, is the small village of Fjærland, tucked beneath the vast ice of Jostedalsbreen. The approach alone is memorable, with the road hugging the fjord before climbing gently towards the glacier-fed valley.

Fjærland is perhaps best known as Norway’s book town. Several second-hand bookshops occupy old barns and sheds, their shelves spilling out into the open air during the warmer months.

Locals proudly claim there are more books here than residents, a charmingly improbable statistic that feels believable once you arrive.

Beyond the books, the scenery is extraordinary. Short walks lead to viewpoints overlooking glacier tongues, while longer hikes head deeper into the valley. Despite its small size, Fjærland feels quietly rich in both nature and culture.

Nærøyfjord, Aurlandsfjord & Flåm

The southern arms of the Sognefjord, the Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord, reach into Aurland, one of Norway’s most visited fjord regions.

It is easy to see why. Narrow fjords, ancient farmsteads and steep forested slopes create a landscape that feels both intimate and dramatic.

All-electric sightseeing ferry in Flåm, Norway. Photo: David Nikel.

The Aurland valley itself is a paradise for walkers and cyclists, criss-crossed by old paths once used by farmers and traders. Many of these routes pass abandoned farms, offering a glimpse into a harsher but deeply rooted way of life.

Despite their remote appearance, these fjords are surprisingly easy to reach thanks to the Flåm Railway.

This remarkable line descends more than 800 metres from Myrdal on the Oslo–Bergen railway to the tiny fjordside village of Flåm, passing waterfalls, tunnels and mountain farms along the way.

While Flåm is often busy during the day, it becomes far more relaxed in the evening once the crowds depart. Staying overnight allows you to experience the village at a gentler pace and makes early-morning or late-evening walks along the fjord especially rewarding.

Together with the Geirangerfjord, the Nærøyfjord forms part of the West Norwegian Fjords UNESCO World Heritage listing. At its narrowest point, the fjord is just 250 metres wide, with sheer rock walls rising on both sides.

A popular way to experience both fjords is by boat between Flåm and Gudvangen. Often operated by modern electric ferries, this journey is also included in the well-known Norway in a Nutshell route, although it can easily be done independently.

Stave Churches in the Sognefjord Region

For many visitors, Norway’s stave churches are a highlight, and the Sognefjord region is particularly rich in these medieval wooden buildings. The churches at Kaupanger Stave Church and Urnes Stave Church are among the finest examples.

Urnes, the oldest of the surviving stave churches, is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its intricately carved portal blends Christian symbolism with motifs from Norse mythology, making it an extraordinary link between two belief systems.

Aerial summer view of Urnes Stave church in Norway.

A short drive away, the famously photogenic Borgund Stave Church stands almost perfectly preserved, its dark timbers and layered roofs creating an unmistakable silhouette against the surrounding mountains.

Lærdal and Two Remarkable Roads

Often described as the historic heart of the valley, Lærdal is well worth a stop. A devastating fire in 2014 destroyed many timber buildings, but much of the old town has survived, and careful restoration work continues.

A walk through Lærdalsøyri offers a quiet counterpoint to the region’s more dramatic scenery.

For drivers, this area offers two unforgettable journeys. The first is the Aurlandsfjellet National Scenic Route, often called the Snow Road.

Open only in summer, this 45-kilometre mountain road is typically flanked by towering walls of snow early in the season, creating a surreal, almost Arctic experience.

If time or weather does not allow, the alternative route is no less impressive. The Lærdal Tunnel, at 24.5 kilometres, is the longest road tunnel in the world. Its interior lighting design breaks the journey into sections, making the drive strangely calming rather than monotonous.

If you're in more of a hurry, you needn't miss out. The alternative route is much quicker, but intriguing all the same.

At 24.5km, the Lærdal Tunnel is the longest road tunnel in the world. The 20-minute journey is separated into four sections by large caves lit by blue mood lighting and yellow-lit turnaround points.

Road trippers, read on. There's more for you yet!

Sognefjellet Mountain Road

Slicing through the Norwegian landscape from the very end of the Sognefjord to central Norway, the Fv55 National Scenic Route is one of the country’s greatest driving experiences and well worth planning a full day for.

The road slices through mountainous scenery between Jotunheimen National Park and Breheimen National Park, and past the tallest mountain in mainland Norway.

In days long gone, the mountain pass was a dangerous journey, in more ways than one. Inclement weather was a problem at any time of year but essentially in the winter with enormous amounts of snow. But as trade increased along the vital link between coastal and inland Norway, so increased the number of robberies.

Sognefjellet (Photo: Jarle Wæhler / Statens vegvesen)

Today the raw mountain landscape provides the setting for one of the country's most compelling roads trips.

The absolute best time to drive the road is straight after its springtime opening, when enormous banks of snow line both sides of the narrow road. It's an absolutely unforgettable driving experience. Need a place to stay? Check out Røisheim.

Jostedal National Park

If you want to learn about the last Ice Age there are few better places on the planet than the imposing Jostedalsbreen glacier on the northern side of the fjord.

Mainland northern Europe’s largest glacier had for years continued to grow rather than retreat, but in recent years this trend has started to reverse. Even so, the ice still covers an area of around 474 square kilometres and is up to 600 metres thick.

The National Park is a nature lovers dream. The landscape ranges from lush green valleys and stunning waterfalls right through to the harsh environment of a glacier. Much of the park can only be reached on foot, so the opportunities for hikers, cyclists and skiers are second to none.

At approximately 474 square kilometres, Jostedalsbreen in Sogn og Fjordane county is the largest glacier on mainland Europe. I say approximately, because the rate of shrinking of this glacier in recent years has been quite alarming.

Because of the sheer size of Jostedalsbreen, the two most prominent and accessible arms – Nigardsbreen and Briksdalsbreen – are the most common ways of accessing the glacier.

Outer Sognefjord: Where Fjord Meets the Sea

While much of the attention naturally falls on the dramatic inner reaches of the fjord, the outer Sognefjord deserves a mention of its own.

This is where the landscape begins to soften and widen, and where the fjord’s character shifts from alpine drama to a more open, coastal feel.

Communities such as Vik sit between steep hillsides and fertile farmland, with a strong sense of continuity between sea, land and settlement.

Further west, the fjord gradually opens out towards the North Sea, eventually giving way to the low-lying islands and skerries of the Solund archipelago. Here, the landscape is shaped as much by wind and waves as by ice, offering a striking contrast to the towering cliffs of the inner fjord.

Travelling the full length of the Sognefjord reveals just how varied this region is. From exposed coastal islands to glacier-fed valleys, it feels less like a single destination and more like a journey through several distinct landscapes connected by water.

Cycling the Sognefjord

One of the best ways to explore the wonders of this fjord is on two wheels. Recent guest on the Life in Norway Show, Mike Emery, told me of a charity cycle ride he's set up to help people do just that.

“What I decided to do was create a bike ride that takes three days of riding. We ride from the far west of the fjord all the way into the end of the fjord. It's about 300km. All those riders raise money for World at Play and they have three incredible days in the saddle.”

Getting to the Sognefjord

Although driving allows you to enjoy the best the region has to offer, the system of high-speed passenger ferries run by Bergen-based Norled provide an enjoyable alternative as they essentially serve as a sightseeing cruise of the Sognefjord.

The five-hour service from Bergen to Sogndal runs all year although there is just one early evening departure during the winter months.

From May to September, an additional service links Bergen with Flåm, via Vik, Balestrand, and Leikanger.

This service can be used to travel between the small towns of the Sognefjord, but as departures are limited it’s wise to keep a copy of the timetable on you to avoid an unplanned overnight stop.

Individual trips on these ferries can be expensive, but the Norled Fjord Card is one of Norway’s best travel bargains. It allows unlimited travel on the network for five days, but is only available from May to September to coincide with the regional ferry.

When to Visit the Sognefjord

There is no single “best” time to visit the Sognefjord. Each season brings its own atmosphere, advantages and limitations, and the right choice depends on what kind of experience you are looking for.

Summer, from June to August, is the most popular time to visit. Ferry services are frequent, mountain roads are open, and long daylight hours make it easy to explore at a relaxed pace. Hiking conditions are at their best, fruit orchards are in full leaf, and the villages are at their liveliest.

Spring is often overlooked but can be particularly rewarding. As the snow melts, waterfalls thunder down the mountainsides and the landscape feels fresh and newly awakened.

High mountain roads usually open in late spring, sometimes with towering walls of snow still lining the route, while visitor numbers remain relatively low.

Autumn brings quieter roads, softer light and dramatic colours as forests and orchards turn gold and red. It is a wonderful time for photography and low-level hiking, although some ferry routes and tourist services begin to scale back after September.

Winter is the most challenging season, but also the most atmospheric. Snow-covered villages, icy fjords and short days create a very different mood. Access is more limited and careful planning is essential, yet for those seeking solitude and stark beauty, the Sognefjord in winter can be deeply memorable.

Whatever the season, flexibility is key. Weather changes quickly in fjord country, distances are longer than they appear on the map, and some of the most memorable moments come from slowing down and adapting plans to suit the landscape rather than the other way around.

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